The term "Jamdani" comes from the Persian words jam, meaning flower, and dani, meaning vase, describing the floral designs that often adorn the textile.
Bengali grandmothers have an unwavering love for handloom textiles, with starchy jamdani being a festive favourite. During this time, the delicately pressed five-yard pieces, often tucked away in closets, emerge to celebrate the sounds of dhaak. More than a fashion statement, jamdani represents the preservation of cultural identity and the artistic legacy of handloom weaving. Each piece, a labour of love, has motifs inspired by regional aesthetics, nature, and mythology.

Before you swap your heirloom jamdani for modern chiffon, learn about the history and legacy of this traditional masterpiece in our textile series - Indian Textiles 101. Jamdani, a centuries-old handwoven textile from the Bengal region-now Bangladesh and West Bengal, India-has deep historical roots. Dr Sadhna, associate professor of fashion design, School Arts and Design at Woxsen University, said that while the term appears in literature from the 3rd century BC in Kautilya’s Arthashastra and during the Gupta period (4th-6th century AD), it was under Mughal rule (16th–18th centuries) that Dhaka’s weavers gained royal patronage.

Evolving from renowned Bengal muslin, jamdani is traditionally crafted from cotton, and is celebrated for its fine, airy texture and elegance. The name “jamdani” derives from the Persian words jam (flower) and dani (vase), describing its floral designs. In 2013, UNESCO recognized Jamdani weaving as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, underscoring its cultural and historical significance. “Each piece of jamdani can take months or even years to complete due to its labour-intensive production, often yielding only a few inches per day, and this slow, meticulous craftsmanship aligns it well with today’s sustainable fashion trends, appealing to those who value eco-friendly and artisanal textiles,” said Dr Chandra Shekhar K E, professor and associate director – academic operations, Alliance School of Design, Bengaluru.

How is jamdani woven? What are the different kinds available?
Dr Shekhar explained that jamdani weaving begins with selecting high-quality cotton or silk yarn, wound onto small bobbins for the loom’s shuttle. The loom is set up with tightly stretched warp threads, creating the fabric’s foundation. Weavers then employ the “Supplementary weft” technique, skillfully introducing thicker weft threads to form intricate patterns, ranging from geometric shapes to elaborate floral motifs.

Craftsmen spend months creating designs based on graph-drawn themes. Professor Suniti Vadalkar, faculty of design, art and performance, FLAME University, said the delicate process utilises frame looms and a tool called a kandul to lift warp threads and integrate additional wefts. “This supplementary weft is interlaced into the base fabric using fine bamboo sticks and individual spools, while the primary weft establishes a lightweight, semi-transparent foundation,” she said. After weaving, the fabric undergoes washing and finishing processes that enhance its texture, resulting in a lightweight, translucent textile renowned for its beauty and craftsmanship. The motifs are referenced from graph paper designs placed under the loom, not sketched directly onto the fabric.

What are the various kinds of jamdani?
Jamdani textiles encompass various styles, each with unique characteristics and cultural significance. Dhakai jamdani, the most traditional, is woven from ultra-fine muslin and known for intricate geometric and floral motifs like panna hajar (thousand emeralds) and kalka (paisley), making these lightweight saris perfect for festive or bridal occasions.

Tangail jamdani blends jamdani and tangail weaving techniques, featuring large borders and elaborate pallus adorned with motifs like lotus, peacocks, and vines, resulting in a slightly heavier yet elegant textile suitable for both traditional and contemporary tastes.

Uppada jamdani, crafted from silk or silk-cotton blends and enhanced with zari (gold and silver thread), boasts a luxurious appeal, often showcasing bold designs like peacocks and florals, making it ideal for weddings and celebrations.

Shantipur Jamdani uses cotton for a lighter, more casual look characterised by smaller geometric motifs, perfect for everyday wear. Finally, Butidar jamdani is defined by small, dense motifs scattered throughout the fabric, providing a rich, decorative appearance that’s fitting for formal or festive events.

What challenges do weavers face in this industry?
Creating jamdani textiles is labour-intensive and time-consuming, with a single sari taking months to complete. Consequently, low wages and financial instability have driven many artisans to abandon the craft. The competition from cheaper, machine-made fabrics has further diminished the value of traditional jamdani. Environmental issues, such as pollution affecting natural resources vital for handloom production, compound these challenges. Younger generations of artisans are increasingly disinterested, seeking more stable income sources and threatening the continuity of this cultural heritage.

Dr Sadhna shed light on key government initiatives supporting the jamdani weaving industry, including subsidised materials and financial aid that help reduce costs, improve product quality, and enhance artisans’ profits. Skill development centres train youth in traditional and modern techniques, preserving heritage while appealing to contemporary markets. Direct online sales allow weavers to reach a global audience and earn more, while international exhibitions and GI status enhance jamdani’s luxury profile, ensuring authenticity and fair compensation for artisans.

However, Dr Shekhar noted that despite these government programs, bureaucratic delays and insufficient outreach often render these initiatives ineffective, limiting their impact on supporting handloom artisans.

How are designers modernising jamdani to appeal to a younger audience?
“Jamdani faces challenges, from long hours of labour to an influx of machine-made imitations. In response, we are reimagining Banarasi jamdani for a new generation — modernising traditional motifs, experimenting with weaving sarees and dupattas in unique colours on these traditional fabrics, and supporting the artisans to ensure that the beauty of jamdani endures for generations to come,” said Gaurika Rai, CEO of Warp ‘n Weft.

According to Dr Sadhna, designers are innovating with formats like half-and-half colour styles and self-coloured weaves, creating subtle and playful aesthetics that resonate with modern fashion. They are expanding jamdani beyond sarees to include dresses, scarves, and jackets, appealing to contemporary tastes while retaining the fabric’s heritage.

Dr Shekhar said the fabric itself is undergoing a transformation, as jamdani, traditionally woven from cotton, is now being skillfully blended with luxurious materials like silk and linen, along with synthetic fibres. Silk blends add a luxurious sheen, while linen offers a lightweight option for casual wear. “Unconventional fusions with materials like denim and chiffon are broadening the scope of Jamdani, allowing it to seamlessly transition between Eastern and Western styles,” he said.

By focusing on sustainability and ethical production, designers emphasise jamdani’s cultural significance, which resonates with young, socially conscious consumers. These initiatives, alongside active promotion on social media, have been influential in reviving jamdani as a fashion-forward, heritage-inspired textile that appeals to new generations.

In conversation with The Indian Express: Prof. Suniti Vadalkar, Faculty of Design, Art and Performance, FLAME University.